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Anita LeBrun said she hoped to enjoy a drink with her friends, but it was also a matter of independence.
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If it’s good enough for Prince Ottavio Gonzaga and Anna del Conte, then dare you pass up the opportunity to try this wonderfully sweet and sour way with chicken? While I look at my copies of Jane Grigson’s Fruit Book , Anna del Conte’s Amaretto, Apple Cake and Artichokes , and Francis Bissell’s The Scented Kitchen at home, they seem different from when they are pulled from the shelves in my parent’s kitchen in Dorset. Also, on the first morning of any stay, looking at these three with a cup of tea before anyone else is up has become a habit that may be superstitious. On the second day, I made a recipe from the inimitable Anna, who also lives in Dorset and is now 100. For her recipe of chicken breasts in a 17th-century sweet and sour sauce, Anna was inspired by Bartolomeo Stefani, chef to Prince Ottavio Gonzaga (one of the numerous members of The House of Gonzaga who ruled Mantua from 1328 to 1708) and author of the 1662 manual, L’arte di Ben Cucinare (The Art of Fine Cooking). Anna notes that Stefani was a chef of great inventiveness, and one of the first to move away from the heavily spiced recipes of the Middle Ages towards a style of cooking with a lighter touch, flavoured with herbs, citrus and flowers. And this recipe is a good example of his approach to ingredients: poached chicken (originally capon) served in thick slices with a sweet-and-sour sauce of wine, sugar, vinegar, olive oil and lemon. Once assembled, the dish is left to sit in order for the chicken slices to soak up the sauce’s flavours, and then served at room temperature. It is a lovely dish for a hot day (or evening). Continue reading...
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Here are our expert’s favourite running packs for everyday plods, all-out races and trail adventures • The best running shoes for every runner Runners can end up carrying a surprising amount of paraphernalia – phone, keys, jacket, maybe snacks (OK, definitely snacks) and water. If you dare to venture into the world of ultra marathons, that list grows even longer. While shorts and running tights have started packing in extra pockets to ease the burden, the best way to boost your mid-run storage is to invest in a running vest or hydration pack. Like running backpacks , running vests range from minimal race-ready designs to big-volume options for trail-taming self-sufficiency. The best running vests give you the confidence to go further, knowing you’ve got everything you need to conquer your run. Over the years, I’ve relied on vests to help me through thousands of training miles, as well as dozens of marathons and ultras. Best running vest overall: The North Face Summit run vest 5l Best budget running vest: Harrier Kinder 10l Continue reading...
Don’t pour it down the sink. This subtly tangy liquid is naturally acidic, adding flavour and fluffiness to your baking Mozzarella comes in a bag or pot surrounded by whey or brine. This is known as latticello in Italy, and has all the flavour of the cheese and more – it’s lactic, sour and subtly sweet, with a powerful, salty, umami-rich depth of flavour. It’s delicious as a drink in it’s own right, but it’s also great to cook with. It can be used instead of buttermilk or yoghurt in marinades, even though it has less viscosity than both, and in baking. I’ve included the mozzarella itself in today’s recipe, but it is entirely optional and could easily be saved for another recipe. Continue reading...
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